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Page 19.
Content:
1-Brake fluid boiling point chart 2-Carburetors 101: general overview 3-Digisetup procedure
4-Autozone fan switch part# 5-Lack of charge (Updated) 6-Smoother clutch action 7-TPS adjustment trick
8-How to clean the combustion chambers and pistons tops 9-Tuning air/fuel ratio with a Dynotune digital meter
10-Digi installation on a 04 R1
1
Brake fluid boiling point chart: Click here
2
Carburetors 101: general overview.
Over the years I've installed and tuned a number of jet kits from several manufacturers in a few bikes...I've also done numerouse E.G.A. monitored dyno-runs with several model bikes . Hence...I've become quite familiar with carb tuning, jet kits and associated hardware...I'm here to share that information with you so that you may benefit and gain a better understanding of "Carb Tuning". And first..I think it appropriate that everyone reading this understand first things first...
1st..."THE CIRCUTS"
In a CV Carb there are "Areas" of "Tunability"...they are reffered to by tuners as..."Circuts"..and they are...
1. "Idle Circut"..(Idle-1,500rpm).."Adjustable
Via Idle Butterfly and Air/Fuel Mixture Screws"
2. "Pilot Circut"..(1,500-approx. 3,500rpms).."Adjustable Via
Pilot Jets/Pilot Air Bypass"
3. "Needle Circut"..(approx 2,500-8,500 rpms).."Adjustable Via
Needle Heigth, Taper and Design"
4. "Main Jet Circut"..(approx 8,500-Redline rpms with a slight over-lap
effect as low as 3,000 rpms)..."Adjustable Via Main Jet Size Only."
Many of these Circuts "Over-Lap" and can have an effect each other however...each has it's "Primary Control" over state of tune in their respective ranges. ie...you will not have much success tuning out a lean idle by swapping for a larger main anymore than you could cure a mid-range dip by adjusting your idle speed. These "Areas of Tune"..."Circuts"...are best controlled by the hardware associated with their "Respective Rev Ranges".
"RE-JETTING/CARB TUNING"...
I love in-line 4's...and they have been my engine design of choice throughout most of my life. And..ever since peering into my first bank of 4 CV Carbs and realizing how "Off" things can be and the benefits of correcting air/fuel mixtures (closely regulated to the "Very Lean" side of things especially at low revs) I always thought it best to make "Tuning My Carbs" a first and foremost affair with any bike I've owned.
"What Controls What and How?"...
It's really rather simple once you understand...
"Idle Speed & Pilot Circut"..is commonly adjusted via a knob or thumbscrew..this simply controls the "Static Position" of the Carb Butterfly's regulating air/fuel flow. This along with the "Pilot Circut" can be adjusted/controlled for Rich/Lean tuning via the "Air/Fuel Mixture Screws" and or..."Modification of the Pilot Air Bypass Hole Size".
"The Needle Circut"...I.M.O. This is "THE" most important part of the Carb Tuning Process as...It controls the "Lions Share" of your "Rev Range"...and..therefore...plays the LARGEST ROLE in the Over-All Drive-Ability and Performance of your Carbs Tuning.
This is the area where most Aftermarket Jet Kit manufacturers strive for "Perfection"...as they know...The Needles Construction and Design provides the largest rev range performance increase of any other component commonly found in any comprehensive jet kit for in-line 4's.
Where "Stock Needles" are commonly made of Aluminum...and only provide for one set needle heigth where...Aftermarket Needles are provided with multiple head slots and "E-Clips" so that needle heigth can be readily adjusted and...are typically made of S.S. (Some even Titanium)...this change in material allows the designer to make a much more "Slender Needle" than the stock alum. needles...hence...allowing for more and greater ease of airflow through the carb throats.
Also...unlike "Stock Needles"...some aftermarket needles incorporate "MULTIPLE TUNED TAPERS"...designed to properly "ATOMIZE" and "FOCUS" fuel/air flow through the center of the carb throats throughout a wide "Ban of Vacuum"....where...Single Taper Needles Don't.
"The Main Jets"
While the Main Jet Size can and does have a slight effect over a large rev range...Their "Primary Area Of Control" is while at or near WFO.
So my point is...There are a number of ways to make a bike "Feel Different"...but there is a vast difference between a comprehensive carb tuning and...just a jet job..I posted this just so you are all aware of that difference.
3
Digisetup procedure.
To perform effectively,
DiGI needs to acquire data individual to your motorcycle model.
To achieve this, follow the steps outlined below, which involve running the
engine whilst
in gear. To avoid injury or damage, you must use a secure paddock stand. If
you don’t have
access to a suitable stand, or lack adequate technical knowledge/equipment,
the system must be fitted by a qualified dealer or installer.
Please note: You must
engage neutral before starting the ratio learning process and between
first and second gears. You can restart the learning process at any time, by
grounding the
orange Set Up cable. Programming the system may take more than one attempt.
First you must
tell the system how many gears your motorcycle has. Engage neutral, switch on
ignition and
ensure engine kill switch is in the run position.
How to Program: Touch
the orange Set Up cable to ground (eg; engine or frame bolt); hold it
there until the display flashes P (program) this may take up to 1 minute. With
the P
flashing, remove and retouch the orange cable to a suitable ground on the motorcycle,
you will see the display change to 1. Each time you touch the cable to the motorcycle
earth,
you will see the display advance through 2, 3, 4 etc. When you reach the number
of gears
relevant to your bike remove the orange cable and wait for the display to flash
0. This may
take up to 1 minute. Insulate and secure the orange cable.
Now teach the system your
gear ratios, so that it can indicate the gear selected. DiGI will
generally only learn gear ratios if you exceed 2000RPM in each gear. Some lower
gears may
be learned at lower revs, but you may need to rev higher for the higher gears.
Engage neutral & start the motorcycle engine. Select first gear and release
clutch.
At approx. 2000rpm the display will begin to flash the figure 1, the flash will
increase in
frequency until a single
bar - appears. The system has now acquired the data for 1st gear.
Change slowly from 1st to 2nd gear with a pause at neutral so the DiGI has received
the
neutral light signal. The number 2 will appear in the display. As revs rise
the 2 will flash
more quickly until the bar - appears.
The system has now acquired
the data for 2nd gear. Repeat this process,
exceeding 2000RPM until the bar - appears in the display, in each remaining
gear.
When the figure relating to top gear stops flashing, programming is complete.
4
Autozone fan switch part#.
For those of you interested, there was a replacement found for the fan switch that comes on at 190 now instead of 220.
Its available from Autozone, and it works great. Part number is SW518 and is by the company Wells.
5
Lack of charge: Again.
In regard to lack of charge:
1) Charge the battery overnight (7~12 hours), not to exceed 24 hours. You may
exceed 24 hours if you are using a ‘smart charger’.
2) Disconnect charger and allow battery to stand for 30 minutes. Check the battery
voltage with a digital voltmeter.
The voltage should be around 13.3~13.5. If the voltage is less than 12.5, replace the battery.
3) Install known good battery into bike and start engine. After warm-up, bring
engine speed up to 5000 rpm and measure the battery voltage at the same time.
The voltage should be about 14~14.5 volts. If the voltage is greater than 15, the problem is most likely the rectifier/regulator.
If the voltage is less than 13.5, then it’s either the alternator (stator coil) or the rectifier/regulator, or possibly even both.
3a) SIDE NOTE: A problem that seems to occur with the R1 rather
frequently is the 3-terminal stator coil connection fails
and the resultant heat from the I*R drop melts the connector. Be sure to check
this!
4) To check the stator coil (alternator), measure the coil(s) resistance at
the 3-terminal connector with an ohmmeter.
The resistance reading between each coil (three total), should be 0.45~0.55 ohms @ 20C (68F).
If not, replace the stator coil. Be sure to negate (subtract) lead resistance from your readings.
To do this, touch the meter leads together and note the value of the resistance reading; subtract this value from your stator coil readings.
...and yes, the recifier/regulator is the heat sink thingy.
UPDATE (04/10/09)
It happend again...its the 3rd time the damn thing fried on me.
Well, to be accurate, let me tell you the whole story;
1st time it fried on me was back in summer of 2001; on my way to a bike meeting, the bike shutted down and died all-of-a-sudden.
Unplugged everything later, I was able to bump-start it and ride it home in 2 successive stints (died on me a 2nd time, the battery was way too weak).
The next day, I took off the fuel tank and seat and looked at it; low and behold, the rectifier/regulator plug was fried stuck.
Recharged the battery while I was perforiming the surgery (cut the R/R plug and replace with individual connectors packed with loads of dielectric grease).
I rode like that for almost a year, till I found a spare main wiring to replace the one with individual connectors.
Main mistake here is that I kept the same old crappy battery which couldnt hold a full charge.
Guess what, burned the R/R plug of the new main wiring in 03...the bike died on me on the 1st lane of a busy and fast ridden highway...
what an adventure to crawl to the side emergency lane through 4 lanes of fast non-comprehensive cage drivers!
Managed to boost my battery back to life with enough juice to ride home and cut the damn plug again...rode like that the remaining of the season.
Now we`re back in spring of 04; got a new battery, much more powerfull than stock which fitted too!
Rode like that till last week...when I noticed a weird behavior from my charging system (on-board voltmeter is handy in those situations).
It would occasionally drop the voltage to 13.2V, then finally, it gave up and all I got was 12.0V flat.
The very good battery held on till I got home.
Back at work the day after, where I got most of my specialized tools...removed tank and seat, opened the main wiring between the stator coil plug and the R/R.
The stator coil plug was burned to a crisp,but only on the stator side; the other plug, leading to the R/R, was perfect.
I proceeded to change the stator coil plugs with high-quality individual connectors when a friend of mine brought up a discussion about
what I was doing exactly; mind you, he doesnt know crap about bikes ignitions, but he`s not a dumbass either...so we discussed and I exposed him my problem.
He saw the R/R connectors burnt to a crisp too and asked me if could be possible that the 3 burnt white wires from the R/R could be related to the
3 burnt wires of the stator plug...geez ,he was on to something there!
I say what the hell and cut open the main wiring ruber shield and the electrical tape found inside; well, he had it right...the 3 freakin wires
which are the only 3 wires from the stator coil, are going directly to the R/R plug!
I took out the offending wires, cut the black and the red wire going in the R/R and replaced all those burnt pieces of wiring with brand spanking new ones.
More precisely, I built a small wiring harness to replace the portion of wiring that keeps burning (or kept burning in this case).
Started the bike and...a cool 14.4V of charge was the result.
I was lucky that the rectifier plug receptacle was packed with dielectric grease...not even 1 of the blades on it showed signs of heat or melting.
Recharged the battery, rode-tested the whole thing and its perfect.
End of story.
6
Smoother clutch action.
Change your clutch actuating arm (the arm that is attached to the clutch cover on which the clutch cable attach)
for the actuating arm part # 3VD163401100 for the Yamaha TDM 850.
7
TPS adjustment trick.
TPS Adjustment
Revisited
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I had started to feel a few vibes sneaking back in. Particularly that 6500 rpm
resonance I feel in the seat. So I finally decided to try Ivan's TPS adjustment
technique to see if that made a difference.
Warm up the engine completely.
Loosen the TPS screws so that it can easily be moved.
Start engine and set idle speed to 3800 rpm.
Move throttle sensor to get highest engine speed
Tighten screws (make sure that speed does not change during tightening).
Lower idle speed to 1200 - 1300 rpm.
I went for a quick ride to warm it up then did this adjustment. From 3800 rpm
I was able to rotate the sensor and get the rpm up to 4300. I think I remember
seeing another post where another member saw the same result.
Then I went out again to test the difference. Wow! There was a significant reduction in that 6500 rpm resonance. I could barely feel it at all. Not only that, the entire rpm range felt smoother as well. The engine just seemed more willing to rev with much better throttle response.
Later I did the factory 'pull-the-connector-and-replace' test and the tachometer needle poined to 10000 rpm instead of the 'correct' 5000 rpm.
So, what to make of this? I believe Ivan has stated the factory setting is optimized for emissions and not performance.
Anyway, I recommend that if anyone has been thinking of doing this not to wait any longer and get out your T-20 Security Torx bit and give it a try. I should have done this weeks ago.
Pat
(From FZ1 owners webboard)
8
How to clean the combustion chambers and pistons tops.
Yamalube sells something called "ring free". This eliminates carbon deposits throughout your engine.
Check your local yamaha dealer. I was told a cap full every 3 tank fulls will suffice.
9
Tuning air/fuel ratio with a Dynotune digital meter
This will also work great with carburators. You need to weld in a “Bung” or nut into the header at the collector junction.
Screw in the oxygen sensor and wire up the three wires on the gauge and you are done.
This will allow you to tune for wide open throttle or cruise. You can use it to tune for cruise as well but it takes some practice reading the display.
With a perfect 14.7 to 1 A/F ratio the display will cycle up and down: Example Case #1 “ .800 .300 .750 .250 .850 .200 etc…”This is the perfect example of the perfect ratio.
Now if you see this “ .900 .750 .800 .700 .900 etc….” this
would tell you your running rich during cruise.
If you see it run on the other end as follows “.300 .250 .400 .500 .375 etc…. ” ,you are running lean during cruise.
You make adjustments to jets or fuel pressure to make sure the display cycles as in case #1.
Running wide open throttle
should result in readings as follows “.900 .905 .908 .910 .911 .911 etc…”
I t should be very stable! No jumping around, rock solid….
10
Digi installation procedure on a 04 R1
Huge props to Glenn Hall (GRH) for doing this excellent how-to!
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75635