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1- All years R1 de-restriction 2- AIS removal (2 topics) 3- 02 airbox inlet modification 

4- 00-01 tach cluster installation on a 98-99 5- How to read a dyno chart 

6- Where to get switched current on a R1



How to de-restrict 98-01, 02-03 and 04 R1`s

AIS removal procedure and airbox inlet mod.


Here I will run you through the easy task of de-restricting your bikes.

This applies only to some European and Asians markets.


First thing first: 

98-01 bikes:

This is simple; all you got to do is remove the tank and remove the airbox to get to the carbs;

Now you can do it 2 different ways:

-By removing the carbs

-By simply removing the carbs tops

In either way, you should look for this device stuck/glued or just placed in the carbs tops (all 4):

Click here

That's it for the 98-01 bikes!

All those restrictors are doing is prevent your slides from opening fully.

Now the 02-03 bikes:

Do the same mod as the 98-01 bikes with this mod:

You got to cut a wire in the ECU main plug...it is white with 2 gold stripes on it.

Right now, this wire brings live power (+) to the ECU's restricting circuit; all you

have to do is cut it say, at about 2 inches from the connector (in case you need to go back to

restricted state) and solder a length of wire (same gauge) to connect it to the negative (-) post

of the battery.


Pics of the mod (in big and small format):

Location of the wire on the main ECU plug:  Small pic    Big pic

Wire mod location:  Small pic    BIG pic

Note: The object of doing this wire modification is to restore the fuel quantity delivery

to the same level as the models which are not restricted; it has to be done

with the throttle bodies slides restrictors removal.


Finally, the 04 models:


(It is in french, But I`ll work on a translation soon)




02 R1 AIS removal procedure.

(Air injection system, similar procedure for the 00-01 )

(Not finished, need pics of the airbox plumbing plugging)

By Throttle-cntrl (r1-forum member)


Here are some directions as to how I did it. I have photos also if anyone needs them. This is for a 2002 model, the 00-01 are a bit different, they have another hose that needs to be plugged instead of wires (like the 02). 

AIS REMOVAL (Air induction system) 
The air induction system burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons. 

Approx 4lbs of weight savings (this is questionable, I did not weight it but I would guess 2-3 lbs at most) 
Convince of changing oil with out unbolting AIS or header 
Get rid of the backfiring or popping 

Helicoil kit, 5/16 – 18. Found at the auto parts store. 
Tube of the red hi-temp sealant. Found at the auto parts store. 
Locktite – Blue. Found at the auto parts store. 
Four 5/16 – 18 Allen head bolts (about 3/4” long). Found at the hardware store. 
3/8 or ˝ inch diameter vacuum plug. Found at the auto parts store. 

-Remove right and left side plastics and lowers. 

-Remove radiator. I tried to leave this intact as long as possible, but found it necessary to remove to provide plenty of working room in and around the heads. This is your engine we are talking about here so take the time to do this right. (TIP, there is a drain bolt found by the oil cooler on the front of the engine block. It should be a copper bolt.) I drained the coolant into a bucket and reused once I put it back together. 

-Remove header/exhaust system 

-Remove front seat 

-Remove any steering dampers and prop up tank to allow access to the air box. 

-Plug air box outlet using a 3/8” or ˝” vacuum plug. 

-Locate AIS and uninstall. Do not damage the bracket, you still need that to stabilize the lower portion of the radiator. Trace the wire going to the AIS solenoid, it runs back to the general area under the gas tank. Unplug it from its harness. Apply electrical grease (found at a Radio Shack) to the end of the connectors and shrink wrap the end of the harness so you can preserve it. 

-Remove outlets to exhaust ports on the head. To do this will require a good set of vice grips or pliers, lots of twisting and a squirt of WD-40. Once you get these out the nerve-racking part of the mod begins. 

-You now need to “tap” these holes. Get out your trusty Helicoil tap. The kit is a 5/16 – 18 kit, this is different from a 5/16 – 18 tap. The purpose of a Helicoil is to restore threads to a 5/16” diameter, thus requiring a larger tap when you insert the coil they will act as your new threads. 
I used a 3/8 drive ratchet and a 11/32 – 12 point socket to hold the end of my tap. Line it up in the hole and drive the tap in clockwise. You want to load up the tap with plenty of grease to catch the metal shavings created. Drive the tap in a few turns, back it out and clean off the grease/shavings. Repeat this step 3 or 4 times until you have created about ˝” of threads deep in to the head. You want the Helicoil to twist in just far enough that it is sunk in nice and flush with the head. 

-Now that you have created a nice clean set of threads for the Helicoil you need to install the Helicoil. For this I used some of the orange hi-temp sealant on the actual coil. I took the tool supplied with the kit or a set of long needle nose pliers or long vice grips, clamped that to the “tang” of the coil and screwed it in the head clockwise. This is the dangerous part of the mod. I don’t think anyone wants to drop the “tang” down in the head, so pay attention ! Take your needle nose or vice grips and clamp it on the tang of that coil. Hold it good and tight, twist back and fourth until it becomes week and breaks off. Pull it out of the head, don’t drop it ! I almost dropped one and about gave me a heart attack ! I could only imagine bad things happening if that little piece of metal were to fall into your heads. 
-Locate your four 5/16 – 18 Allen head bolts. Apply a coating of hi-temp sealant or some Locktite. I don’t know if the Locktite will help in this application because of the extreme temps. Torque down the allen heads to 10 ft/lbs. 

-Clean up access sealant and admire your work !

Pics of the procedure:

There are 2 ways of doing this (about the AIS in-head adaptors):

-You can remove them entirely, tap the holes and install a bolt:   PIC    PIC

Note: The size of the bolts and tap are mentioned in the text preceding this.

-You can tap the adaptors and insert bolts, but I heard that those may fall eventually (the adaptors).


Note: The size of the bolts and tap needed for that is 10x1.25

Radiator bracket with AIS:   PIC

Radiator bracket installed back on the bike without AIS:   PIC




Air induction removal procedure with pics!!!



02 inlet airbox modification.


Now those pics are very blurry...but you will get the idea.

The object of this mod is to try to let more air enter the box...

how will that affect your mappings is a mystery.



How to install a 00-01 tach cluster on a 98-99 by Sam Farris.


I worked with a gentlemen in Hawaii on installing a 2000 gauge cluster into a '98' R1. Below is a culmination of all our correspondence,....BTW, he did get it to work! :o)

This is the way I interpret what's going on. 
1) The green/black wire coming from the 2000 dash is the 'fan relay activation line'. 
2) The green/yellow wire coming from the 1998 dash to the Igniter Unit is the 'bad fuel level sensor' wire. 
3) From review of the specifications for the 1998~99 temperature sender and the 2000, these sensors are totally electrically/functionally incompatible. The 2000 sensor will not work with a 98~99 dash and a 2000 dash will not work with a 1998~99 sensor. It appears that Yamaha decided to incorporate a speed sensor tach diagnostic for model year 2000. This then 'pushed' the responsibility of fuel level sensor diagnostic on to the dash. This action then 'frees-up' a spot in the dash connector where the 'bad fuel level sensor' wire (green/yellow) went. Yamaha then said 'If we use the temperature sender information for both indication and fan control, and use this 'open slot' for 'fan relay activation', we can save the cost of a thermo-switch, installation time, and some radiator configuration work, all for the cost of one fan relay! As I see it, they saved some money at the cost of some system redundancy in a 'safety critical' system. By having a separate sender and switch, if one fails, you still have the other to either indicate temperature trouble or control temperature. With this system, if the sensor fails, you lose both. Not good in my mind (the bean counters will always win a fight against lawyers in the corporate world). 
Anyway, here is my recommendation Wayne. 
1) Use the 2000 temperature sender. If the 1998 wire harness is not compatible with the 2000 sender, modify the 98 harness (add mating connector for 2000 sender). 
2) Use the 1998 temperature switch. This will of course plug right into the 1998 harness. 
3) Snip the green/yellow wire on the bike 'main harness' side of the dash connector. Connect one end of a 100 ohm resistor to snipped green/yellow wire coming from the main bike harness and connect the other end to chassis ground. 


Some more about this from Sam:

1) Use the 2000 temperature sender. If the 1998 wire harness is not compatible 
with the 2000 sender, modify the 98 harness (add mating connector for 2000 sender).
2) Use the 1998 temperature switch. This will of course plug right into the 1998 harness. 
3) Snip the green/yellow wire on the bike 'main harness' side of the dash connector. 
Connect one end of a 100 ohm resistor to snipped green/yellow wire coming from the main 
bike harness and connect the other end to chassis ground.


How to read a dyno chart.


This is fairly easy...learn it then impress your friends or don't let you impress by that obscure tuner anymore!

When you look at a Dyno chart:

- All gear runs -> test the main jets (upward sloping=lean; downward sloping=rich)

That means that looking at the far right part of the curve, right before it drops, if its tailing up, you are lean;

if its tailing down, you are rich.

- Correct jetting -> all gear run is 1-2hp higher than 4th gear run.

- Lean jetting -> 4th gear > all gear ,they are perfectly matched...but this is not what you are looking for.

- Rich jetting -> All gear 3+hp > than 4th gear; the opposite of the perfect jetting. 

Ignition Advancers: 

- Lean out the jetting (approx. 1 main jet size per 5-7* of advance).

Example: You got 132.5 mains in there, you need 5 degrees of advance, then you got to back to 130`s.

But then again, who will run 5-7 degrees of advance on their bikes?

The opposite is also true: 

Richen jetting one main size if you want to run 4-6 degrees of retard.

Usually, this situation is found on big nitrous shots, 100hp shots and more (unlikely on our bikes)

since we run an additional big fuel pump and dual-outlet fuel petcock...not great when off nitrous.


Where to get switched current on R1`s.


Tap into the brown/blue wire that feeds the fuse box under the seat. 

As has been suggested, utilize an in-line fuse. 

By tapping into the brown/blue wire, the only time the detector will receive power is when

the ignition key is turned on. This will prevent you accidentally leaving the detector

turned on and draining your battery.

Another source of switched power would be the blue wires on each sides of the bike in front, which feeds

the running lights in you turn signals; but this is a rather dirty power source which cant hold a high current drain

so keep small accessories for this if you need a closer-to-the-front source.


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